Fashion and Ways. Style and Costume in Italy 1900 - 1960

Arezzo, Basilica di San Francesco (spazi espositivi) - 24 marzo / 4 novembre 2018

    The exhibition, organized by Munus and Mosaico with the Polo Museale della Toscana and in collaboration with Sil & Arte, traces over half a century of history of costume and fashion in Italy. Through a rich selection of vintage clothes, fashion accessories, paintings, drawings, watercolors and photographs, the exhibition tells the evolution of Italian style in everyday life: the sinuous lines of the so-called Belle Époque dresses, those slips and daring of the Decò era, the austere fashion of the war period, the creativity of the Fifties and the whimsiness of the Sixties. A story that favors the figure of the woman, always the absolute protagonist of the fashion world, which highlights the progressive social emancipation: the abandonment of corsets and wide skirts in the early twentieth century to make room for increasingly dynamic and modern clothing , until the revolutionary miniskirt. The exhibition, divided into sections dedicated to individual decades, tells the fashion that was worn, but also that which was admired in magazines and that which was represented by "reporter" artists, such as Ottorino Mancioli, or by painters such as Fazi, Sobrero, Avenali, portraitists of "daily life". Finally, the Italian style testifies to objects that have marked an era, such as the gramophone, the radio, the telephone and the television. The theme of this exhibition focuses on the XX century, which has seen incredible changes in every field and has meant for all social classes, but especially for medium-low ones, a continuous integration with the environment of life, the epochal changes of the modalities of the work, to those who inevitably register in the customs, habits, fashions and ways of representing themselves on the part of society at all levels. Cities are increasingly characterized as places of modernity, factories that employ workers, collective housing in buildings, railways and road traffic. Life is hectic, the times of existence are punctuated by working hours that are still too long, family life suffers a lot from this change, especially when women work and there is still very little available to organize children's day. The fashion, the common and everyday, changes for practical needs and a lot of women's work has as its clothing because with the spread of department stores intended for purchases of middle classes, many tailoring workshops are born, in which they are packaged at piece with pre-established sizes the various items. It is not a fashion in the sense of luxury and exclusivity that we want to tell through clothes, accessories, paintings and photographs; it is the taste shared by the majority of people, who do not disdain to dress and behave like others, rather they try to belong to a group, to a category, homologating in the choice of clothing items, in home furnishings, in social behaviors , in ways of being. It is the fashion of the music listened to the gramophone and the wild dancing like the Charleston, of the communications through the telephone, of the broadcasts of the radio and then of the television. All the objects presented during the six decades in question above all the lives of women and have been part of their world: handbags and hats, clothes for every hour of the day, frivolous accessories, but also essential items for their free time : embroidery, reading, games. And there are also those related to their affections: to children and their small universe of clothes and games; to men, who also represent themselves with their hats and tuxedos, with their sports, described in the '30s by Ottorino Mancioli, an artist who is attentive to representing his contemporary society also in entertainment such as dancing or chatting on the beach. Emilio Sobrero returns the intimacy of the portrait of the '30s. In the most problematic and difficult of the 40s fashion and the ways of different femininities are told by Rolando Monti and Marcello Avenali, able to read the deep bond with the world around them through the image of a fashionable housewife or woman . The photographs of the family album from the posed portraits of the first decades of the century, individual or group, theatrical appearances, a sort of business card to leave as evidence of particular events and to be remembered, are enriched in the 50s and 60 of impromptu images, spontaneous poses, unconventional expressions. However, it is always a question of memory, of that sense of time, of the here and now, which photography alone can give back, with its seemingly immovable image, yet generating the reappropriation of a moment, the recovery of a memory. And precisely because the memories are more real, in the '60s they also rely on the camera, object that in those years became a must, as its use has become one of the most practiced hobbies by men. Life as a story through memories is the idea that runs through this exhibition; every object evokes not only moments that once were personal, it underlines today the common feeling of the ages, the belonging of fashions and ways to entire generations that have identified themselves in them. The exhibition is curated by Mariastella Margozzi and Laura Mancioli, and is organized by Munus and the Director of the Tuscan Museum Complex in collaboration with Stil & Arte, sponsored by the Tuscany Region, created with the contribution of Argenterie Giovanni Raspini and Valdichiana Outlet Village Media Partner The Nation and Teletruria .

    Info and reservations
    + 39.0575.352727- Timetables
    Basilica of San Francesco - Frescoes by Piero della Francesca
    from Monday to Friday from 9 to 19, Saturday from 9 to 18.00, Sunday from 13 to 18.00 Tickets
    - with the combined ticket Basilica San Francesco + Archaeological Museum + Casa Vasari Museum: € 3.00.
    - show only: full € 6, reduced € 4, schools € 3

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